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Pet Questions? Ask 'em Here!


Jesi

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3) do you think its kinda cruel to yell/scold a dog for barking when its playing its role as guardian of the home? dont get me wrong, id fuss/whomp them on the nose if it was incessant too, but just a few barks when someone approaches or passes by our door, and the dog gets yelled at for it, and i feel bad 'cause its what the dog's supposed to do. just looking for thoughts here.

Friend of mine's trained hers to bark quietly in the apartment.

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1)

just wondering; sensibilities aside, any harm from this?

 

Sensibilities aside, there's no harm in dressing up your pet. In some instances you get your pet conditioned early enough they actually learn to appreciate it. D's parents have a dachshund who's happiest when she's in her little purple jacket. Go figure.

 

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2) i keep going back & forth with sen. we'd both love a medium to large doggy but ive a small apt and personally believe, even if we walked it everyday, it'd still be cruel, and we should wait till we have an actual yard of some kind to stretch its legs. what say you?

 

Agreed. Large dogs need a lot of space. A large dog in a small space is only going to get fat and get cagey. Dogs of any size need exercise and attention at regular intervals. Apartment life just isn't the life for a dog. Aside from that, you face astronomical pet fees that apartments charge, and the cost to replace damaged carpet (Been there, it sucks, trust me). Plus most major apartment facilites have size and breed restrictions. If you want a larger dog, best wait until you have a house with a yard and enough savings to take care of it.

 

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3) do you think its kinda cruel to yell/scold a dog for barking when its playing its role as guardian of the home? dont get me wrong, id fuss/whomp them on the nose if it was incessant too, but just a few barks when someone approaches or passes by our door, and the dog gets yelled at for it, and i feel bad 'cause its what the dog's supposed to do. just looking for thoughts here.

 

If you don't want your dog to bark incessantly, you start it from a puppy and train it properly to listen to you and settle down when it gets too amped up. Establish your position as the alpha from day one. Use the assistance and advice of a dog trainer to condition your dog to respect and listen to you and look to you for guidance. Dogs bark for a variety of reasons and usually one or two barks is sufficient. But incessant barking, barking at the wind, barking at strangers, barking at anything when it's not appropriate will drive an owner mad. But you can't strike or fuss at them for it, because in a backward sort of way, you made them who they are by not taking the proper steps to condition your pet. It's NOT THEIR FAULT. They're doing what they know to be appropriate. You have to understand that as much as we project a human persona into our pets, they don't understand english. THey don't know what "NO!" and "SHUT UP" and such mean. You raise your voice to them, it's the same as them barking. And if you haven't established who the alpha is in the house, you lose all control. WHen you yell or strike out, they think, "Well what the fuck do you expect me to do? You're doing it, you taught me it's okay to do this, I'm gonna do it!" When you strike out or yell enough times, you're going to wind up with a neurotic dog that doesn't know up from down, and that just snowballs the behavioral problems. Once you have a dog that's out of the puppy stage, it's incredibly difficult to break them of habits they learned were okay when they were puppies. SO start them early.

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  • 2 months later...

Case of the Week: Sebastian and Miranda

 

I went through a harrowing experience this week that I thought I'd share, because it brings up a really good topic: What do you do when you find an abandoned, infant animal?

 

Sebastian and Miranda are named after character's from Shakespeare's "The Tempest". They were born during TS Fay, under a trailer, and their mom took off. One of the techs I work with brought them in after her father found them, and I volunteered to foster them. I've bottle-raised kittens before, very successfully, and so I was up for the challenge. These two literally were only hours old, still with their umbilical cords attached, eyes and ears shut to the world, weighing in at 3 ounces each. Kittens, when abandoned, have three basic needs: Warmth, regular feedings, and a clean environment. And so the routine went, thursday into friday into saturday, feeding and checking and warming and cleaning every few hours, until last night I found Sebastian looking, for lack of a better word, "Blah". The night prior, he kept me up all night, moving around in the box I'd set up, crying because he got away from either his sister or his heat source. Last night though, was a completely different story. In the course of three hours he went from being vibrant and active to barely able to hold his head up or breathe. He was drooling heavily and couldn't seem to regulate his body temperature despite being under a heat lamp and on a bed warmed with water bottles. It was clear that he wouldn't make it through the night, so the only option I had was to keep him warm and as comfortable as possible until his ultimate end came. At 1:30 this morning I woke up and he was gone. At least, I thought, I still had the little girl. But when I went to move her, she too, was going through the same problem - Weak, unable to take a breath, and it seemed I was going to lose her as well. I won't lie, I had only had these kittens in my care for a few days, but I was absolutely heartbroken. I buried them together under a tree in our yard this morning.

 

The statistics for these kittens were stacked against them. They were born exposed to the elements, likely without the ability to feed from their mom before they were found. 20 to 40 percent of kittens born in general will not last to 12 weeks of age. The number grows when the mother cat, or Queen, is not fed a high quality diet (feral cats, for example), or if the kittens are not able to feed from the Queen for at least the first few days of life. The first few days, the queen will produce colostrum, milk high in carbohydrates, protein and antibodies, and low in fat. Kitten formula attempts to mimic the properties of this vital meal, but ultimately the survival rate still remains small. Because there are so many 'unknowns' contributing to the death of kittens under 12 weeks of age, their death is often attributed to "Fading Kitten Syndrome". An otherwise healthy kitten 'takes a turn' and can pass away within hours. Their tiny bodies and immature systems are so sensitive that very little can be done to revive them once they begin to succumb to their symptoms.

 

Understanding that the odds are not 'great' for infant animals, you still have to do everything you can do to support them and help them thrive while they can. If ever you find an orphaned animal, be it dog, cat, armadillo, squirrel, or any other type of fauna, the first and best thing to do is get them warm, then get them to a vet. Even if it's a wild animal, most local vets are familiar with local wildlife rescue organizations who have trained volunteers that take on orphaned animals. Puppies and kittens that are orphaned can be evaluated and the ones with even half a chance can be rehabilitated and adopted out if they survive those critical first days.

 

Sebastian and Miranda were loved while they were here, and while I'm sad that I couldn't do more for them, I'm glad they have the chance now to start over and try again, perhaps with better odds next time.

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I won't lie, I had only had these kittens in my care for a few days, but I was absolutely heartbroken. I buried them together under a tree in our yard this morning.

 

:wink:

 

 

do you know of any good grooming sites? I'd like to groom my dog, but I don't know where to start, he gets a bath once a week (everywhere but his head, he has long hair so I'm afraid of water getting in his ears and him getting an infection) which he enjoys but as soon as I bring out the brush it becomes a nightmare.

 

He snapped at the groomers. They won't see him again, BUT in his defence, he had never gone before and I think he was just overwhelmed and scared, he has never snapped at anyone before or scince the incident. So I'd rather just do it myself.

 

I know part of the problem is that his previous owners never groomed him, and he needs to be groomed becuase his hair is so thick.

 

He's a sheltie btw!

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ok, so i cant recall if i asked this before, but uh, less fun question here.

 

while back, i found a cat that'd been run over and was painfully dying. i didnt know what to do; id considered shooting it but it was very close to a college campus and there's laws on that kinda shit...plus, i didnt have a gun. the idea of hitting it & hoping for the best was a bit much even for me, id called animal rescue or something (this was years back) but i was later told they didnt show, and the animal eventually expired.

uh, any ideas there, as to what couldve been done better? again, im talking bone/guts-onna-outside, animal's clearly on its way out the door type situation. im a fan of euthanasia in such situations, obviously

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Hey Nick, you know I'm probably the only person here without a question thread? I feel like I'm really missing something all of a sudden. I wanna know what Jesi says about this because it's gonna have to be the same recommendation for anyone who dares to read the FAQ.

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A friend gave us our cat, Hopper, when he was around 3 to 4 months old. He's grown up quite well, and is now a year and 5 months oldish. We feed him well (or at least we think we do?). He gets bowl of dry food in the morning, a half-can of wet food in the afternoon (and we refill the dry food bowl) and then later that night he gets another bowl of dry food. He was an outside cat for eight months, since January when he was neutered and had his shots. Everyone who would come over always comments about "how skinny he is!", but he doesn't seem to be sick or anything... my mom mentioned he might have worms, but all the signs point to no. She's currently cat sitting for us this month while we move to our place, and he weighed in at 7lbs (her cat, Sam, looks chunky and weighed in at 8lbs).

 

I mean, he does look slender, but we always did our best to make sure that he got plenty to eat (the neighbor cats were notorious for coming and snacking on his food, and I would usually smoke a few cigs and make sure he got a good chunk of his meal). His face is even slim, I mean compared to the other cats we've ever had...

 

Should we be worried and get him checked up right away? Or could it be just his breed?

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:2T:

do you know of any good grooming sites? I'd like to groom my dog, but I don't know where to start, he gets a bath once a week (everywhere but his head, he has long hair so I'm afraid of water getting in his ears and him getting an infection) which he enjoys but as soon as I bring out the brush it becomes a nightmare.

 

He snapped at the groomers. They won't see him again, BUT in his defence, he had never gone before and I think he was just overwhelmed and scared, he has never snapped at anyone before or scince the incident. So I'd rather just do it myself.

 

I know part of the problem is that his previous owners never groomed him, and he needs to be groomed becuase his hair is so thick.

 

He's a sheltie btw!

 

Are you talking about learning to groom your own dog? It can be challenging, depending on how you want him "groomed"... Being as it's the late summer, it may not be a bad idea just to shave him down completely and then gradually teach him it's okay to be brushed as his hair coat grows back out. Other options are to use over the counter natural sedatives like valerian root extract or Bach Rescue Remedy. A benedryl can take the edge off sometimes too (1mg per pound). Sedation sometimes is the only answer to a dog that already has a long-established dislike of grooming, and ultimately the best recommendation is going to come from your vet. Collie breeds (Shelties included) can be very sensitve to some sorts of sedation so it's not a subject to approach lightly. If he already bites groomers and such, it's not too far of a stretch to say he may take a swing at you once the brush comes out. Some techniques on basic grooming can be found here: http://www.expertvillage.com/video-series/...ming-basics.htm though as I said, it may not be a bad idea just to shave him down and let his hair coat grow back while training him and desensitizing him to the brush.

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ok, so i cant recall if i asked this before, but uh, less fun question here.

 

while back, i found a cat that'd been run over and was painfully dying. i didnt know what to do; id considered shooting it but it was very close to a college campus and there's laws on that kinda shit...plus, i didnt have a gun. the idea of hitting it & hoping for the best was a bit much even for me, id called animal rescue or something (this was years back) but i was later told they didnt show, and the animal eventually expired.

uh, any ideas there, as to what couldve been done better? again, im talking bone/guts-onna-outside, animal's clearly on its way out the door type situation. im a fan of euthanasia in such situations, obviously

 

If you find an animal that's in such bad condition that the only option is euthanasia, calling animal control is always going to be your first defense. Miami-Dade Animal Services is usually quick to respond to calls, but if no one responds within a few minutes, the police can be called as well. Just make sure they know that the animal is gravely injured and can't be handled and needs professional involvement. Putting an animal to death by means other than humane euthanasia, even if it's on its way out, is not somehting I wish on ANYONE... So let the authorities handle it.

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Hey Nick, you know I'm probably the only person here without a question thread? I feel like I'm really missing something all of a sudden. I wanna know what Jesi says about this because it's gonna have to be the same recommendation for anyone who dares to read the FAQ.

 

Skeet,

 

While originally I did have an "Ask me any random question" thread, it died suddenly and inexplicably and in its place I decided to make a question thread based on giving advice on something I'm well-versed in. While the 'ask me anything' thread has its amusing benefits, having the same scenario over and over, seeing people answer the same questions gets a little old. So... make a question thread if you like, but make it unique.

 

And Read the FAQ... But realize that viewing the materials listed within is banned and punishable by execution in all 50 states, plus 128 countries.

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:2T:

 

Best response to anything, ever. I have no pet questions(for which I apologise) but I wholeheartedly approve of your FAQ-hate and disdain for cookiecutter threads. I have no unique hook, whereas your thread serves a genuine purpose and there's nothing else like it. ROme thanks you for your contribution.

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A friend gave us our cat, Hopper, when he was around 3 to 4 months old. He's grown up quite well, and is now a year and 5 months oldish. We feed him well (or at least we think we do?). He gets bowl of dry food in the morning, a half-can of wet food in the afternoon (and we refill the dry food bowl) and then later that night he gets another bowl of dry food. He was an outside cat for eight months, since January when he was neutered and had his shots. Everyone who would come over always comments about "how skinny he is!", but he doesn't seem to be sick or anything... my mom mentioned he might have worms, but all the signs point to no. She's currently cat sitting for us this month while we move to our place, and he weighed in at 7lbs (her cat, Sam, looks chunky and weighed in at 8lbs).

 

I mean, he does look slender, but we always did our best to make sure that he got plenty to eat (the neighbor cats were notorious for coming and snacking on his food, and I would usually smoke a few cigs and make sure he got a good chunk of his meal). His face is even slim, I mean compared to the other cats we've ever had...

 

Should we be worried and get him checked up right away? Or could it be just his breed?

 

 

Well, first thing's first. There is no such thing as a 'lean breed'. There are some cats that tend to be larger in body size in general (I.E. Maine Coon, Norwegian Forest Cat) but their body mass is supposed to be lean. See the body condition scale below and you'll see what I mean. Look at "IDEAL" versus the 8/9 score. The typical housecat that you see that's bulging at the seams isn't healthy. Considering how much Hopper is eating, it sounds like he should weigh more than he does. If you feed a highquality cat food usually he would only require 1 to 1 1/2 cups of food per day, not including canned (Which is more of a treat than a dietary requirement). If you are worried about his weight, have him vet-checked as soon as you can afford it. A few simple lab tests can determine a lot of things, such as parasites, heartworm disease, and feline leukemia. Being that he is or was an outdoor cat, the odds of him having any of those three is high and all can contribute quietly to weight loss, or lack of weight gain.

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Case of the Week - Vacation Time!

 

I'm writing this from the 30th floor of the Westin Peachtree Plaza hotel in Atlanta, GA. I'm deep in the heart of downtown but if I look out to the east, I see beyond the city limits and out all the way to Stone Mountain. It's going to be a great weekend, as we're attending Dragon*Con, but as we had to leave our pets at home, I was inspired to write a post about pets and vacation.

 

So as the western hemisphere gears up to celebrate Labor day (there goes my september white collection... ) many people are taking advantage of the long weekend by taking off on one last mini-vacation before the summer season is 'over'. Kids are back in school, fall is right around the corner, and many families have hit the road. The question begs, "What do we do with the pets?"

 

Cats are easy, really. Unless they have very specific needs (Like a cat that's on daily medication) they can stay at home with very little conflict. Cats have no sense of time, and so you can be gone for a few days without them getting terribly anxious. A full, clean litter box, a full food and water bowl (or an auto-feeder/waterer) and you're good to go. Our cats are at home with the same accomodations and they'll be perfectly fine for 4-5 days. A neighbor can look in on them if you like, though for the most part it's unnecessary.

 

Dogs are a different story. If you're going to a non-pet location, and haven't got a willing friend or neighbor, a boarding facility or petsitter may need to be lined up. Boarding your pet in a kennel can be a very good experience for you and your dog, as it gives you the peace of mind of knowing your dog is in good hands, and your dog gets to get used to being away from the family.

 

Finding a kennel is easy. But finding a GOOD kennel can be a challenge. You wouldn't put your child into just any old day care, so why would you put your dog into any old dog kennel? If you have an established veterinarian (WHICH YOU SHOULD!), call them and ask if THEY do any boarding. If not, ask if they can confidently recommend a boarding facility. Many times, vets have adequate space in their hospital for at least some boarding. If there's space and staff available, you may be able to get away with keeping your dog at the animal hospital. This, in my mind, is the "RITZ CARLTON" of boarding. Why? Because your pet is already long-established there. Your vet is on call 24/7. There's already record of vaccine history on file, and accurate records kept of eating and drinking and behavior habits. If your pet gets sick, he's already at the hospital and able to be treated. And because most vets don't do a lot of heavy boarding, your pet can have more individualized care. Vets make their money from performing medicine. They feel the need to charge an arm and a leg for keeping your pet at their facility so more oft than not, you'll find that boarding with your vet is much less expensive than finding a private boarder.

 

This article from the Humane Society of the United States has a few great points, if you absolutely are forced to find a non-vet, private boarding facility.

How do I find a good kennel?

 

Ask a friend, neighbor, veterinarian, animal shelter, or dog trainer for a recommendation. You can also check the Yellow Pages under "Kennels & Pet Boarding." Once you have names—even ones you got from reliable sources—it's important to do a little background check.

 

First, find out whether your state requires boarding kennel inspections. If it does, make sure the kennel you are considering displays a license or certificate showing that the kennel meets mandated standards.

 

Also ask whether the prospective kennel belongs to the American Boarding Kennels Association (719-667-1600), a trade association founded by kennel operators to promote professional standards of pet care. Besides requiring members to subscribe to a code of ethics, ABKA offers voluntary facility accreditation that indicates the facility has been inspected and meets ABKA standards of professionalism, safety, and quality of care.

 

Check, too, with your Better Business Bureau to see whether any complaints have been lodged against a kennel you are considering.

 

After selecting a few kennels, confirm that they can accommodate your pet for specific dates and can address your pet's special needs (if any). If you're satisfied, schedule a visit.

 

What should I look for?

 

On your visit, ask to see all the places your pet may be taken. Pay particular attention to the following:

 

Does the facility look and smell clean?

Is there sufficient ventilation and light?

Is a comfortable temperature maintained?

Does the staff seem knowledgeable and caring?

Are pets required to be current on their vaccinations, including the vaccine for canine kennel cough (Bordetella)? (Such a requirement helps protect your animal and others.)

Does each dog have his own adequately sized indoor-outdoor run or an indoor run and a schedule for exercise?

Are outdoor runs and exercise areas protected from wind, rain, and snow?

Are resting boards and bedding provided to allow dogs to rest off the concrete floor?

Are cats housed away from dogs?

Is there enough space for cats to move around comfortably?

Is there enough space between the litter box and food bowls?

How often are pets fed?

Can the owner bring a pet's special food?

What veterinary services are available?

Are other services available such as grooming, training, bathing?

How are rates calculated?

 

 

How do I prepare my pet?

 

Be sure your pet knows basic commands and is well socialized around other people and pets; if your pet has an aggression problem or is otherwise unruly, she may not be a good candidate for boarding. Before taking your animal to the kennel, make sure she is current on vaccinations.

 

It's also a good idea to accustom your pet to longer kennel stays by first boarding her during a short trip, such as a weekend excursion. This allows you to work out any problems before boarding your pet for an extended period.

 

Before you head for the kennel, double-check that you have your pet's medications and special food (if any), your veterinarian's phone number, and contact information for you and a local backup.

 

When you arrive with your pet at the boarding facility, remind the staff about any medical or behavior problems your pet has, such as a history of epilepsy or fear of thunder. After the check-in process, hand your pet to a staff member, say good-bye, and leave. Avoid long, emotional partings, which may upset your pet. Finally, have a good trip, knowing that your pet is in good hands and will be happy to see you when you return.

 

What this article neglected to mention is that you should visit the facilities unannounced. The best way to gauge a kennel is to go in without them knowing you're coming. If it's a good, reputable, well-respected kennel, the staff should be welcoming and knowledgeable, the facility should be clean without having to ask about it. They should make you feel comfortable. If you feel the least bit uneasy about the place, walk away. You wouldn't leave your child at just any old day care, why should your dog be any different? The other question to ask is whether dogs are allowed out to play in the yard off-leash, or if they're hand-walked. If a dog is anxious and wants to go home, even the best-behaved dog will quickly learn to jump over or dig under a fence to get away. Leash-walking is a necessity at the clinic I'm at, however I have been at other facilities where outdoor 'runs' are equipped with enough reinforcements to keep dogs from getting out, while giving them room to run around and play a bit. And finally, the most important question: Are the dogs allowed to play with or interact with other dogs? While your dog may not be aggressive toward other dogs, you never know if other dogs may be aggressive toward him. From personal experience, I can say that letting dogs out as a free-for-all play session is a BAD IDEA. The potential to spread unseen diseases and amplify aggression is far too much of a risk. This is another situation where I would suggest walking away. The idea boarding facility will leash-walk your pet or stand outside with them and monitor them while they have individual play time in the yard. Understand that there is no regulatory authority on how much these places charge, so you are going to likely pay more per night for boarding, and you may also have to pay for a-la-carte services like 'extra play time', having to wash bedding, etc.

 

 

Now. With all that said, the other option some dog owners like is hiring a professional pet sitter. Hiring a good pet sitter is just as difficult sometimes as finding a good boarding kennel. Again, it all starts with your vet - Do any of the staff do any pet sitting? Most of the time you'll find at least one tech or receptionist willing to come to your home and watch your pet for you. Your price may depend on how far away your home is from theirs, how many nights you'll need their services, and whether or not you want them to stay at your home. If no one is available, ask for a recommendation. When looking for a pet sitter, make a list of questions similar to the boarding list. What veterinarian do they use. How many times a day do they come to the home, or do they stay at the home. What kind of pet care experience do they have. Are they comfortable administering medication (if necessary). Can they spot a problem in time to get a pet to the vet. And most importantly, can they provide reliable references. Again, if anything throws up a red flag, walk away and find someone else.

 

Finding care for your dog or cat can be a bit of a process the first time around, but if you do your homework, take your time finding the right person or place, you shouldn't have to go through it more than once. The end result is that you can happily go away for the weekend or any amount of time and not have to worry about your pet.

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that was a good post. i swear, im so going to refer back here when i get a place with a yard and a dog.

he's gonna be a malamute/wolf hybrid or something awesome and his name is gonna be duke and he's gonna ride in my car with me, and im totally gonna brush his hair to help him shed that one coat when it gets hot here, which is like always. this is totally gonna happen if i dont just end up going to the pound and getting a medium sized dog. anyway.

 

Cats have no sense of time

 

wait, how do we know this? im intrigued.

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that was a good post. i swear, im so going to refer back here when i get a place with a yard and a dog.

he's gonna be a malamute/wolf hybrid or something awesome and his name is gonna be duke and he's gonna ride in my car with me, and im totally gonna brush his hair to help him shed that one coat when it gets hot here, which is like always. this is totally gonna happen if i dont just end up going to the pound and getting a medium sized dog. anyway.

wait, how do we know this? im intrigued.

 

 

Okay. Well let me take a step back and explain this concept. Cats do have some sense of time, in that they are creatures of routine. If your cat is accustomed to you getting home every week day at 6pm, they likely will wait by the door. If they are accustomed to waking you up by headbutting you at 5:00 in the morning, you'll never need an alarm clock again. But when it comes to absense, they don't recognize whether you've been away for 5 minutes, 5 days, or 5 months. You can go backpacking around europe for two months, leave the cat to the care of a house sitter, and in 2 months the cat will go right back to the same routine as if you never left. Dogs are sensitive to your presense and tend to be almost mournful when you're gone longer than a day or two. They realize something isn't right with the 'pack'. Eventually they move on, of course, and are happy to see you when you return, but if you leave them at home they tend to be a little wacky, almost resentful after a few days. Which is why dogs typically do much better when they're boarded. In a boarding kennel, even if there's no interaction with other dogs, there's plenty of sounds and smells and other people to distract them from how long you've been gone. Cats generally just shrug it off and go about the rest of their daily routine - eating and sleeping - until you return.

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Thank you SO MUCH for your information!! From what I can tell without looking at him right this moment, he seems to be the 5 on the chart. With him being an outside cat in the past, however, I am still going to get him to the vet as soon as I get my first paycheck from my (hopefully SOON) future job. My mom is caring for him right now as we get settled, but I saw him yesterday and he seemed around the 5. We never see/feel ribs when we pick him up and touch/play with him, so hopefully he's good health.

 

Thank you again <3

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Thank you SO MUCH for your information!! From what I can tell without looking at him right this moment, he seems to be the 5 on the chart. With him being an outside cat in the past, however, I am still going to get him to the vet as soon as I get my first paycheck from my (hopefully SOON) future job. My mom is caring for him right now as we get settled, but I saw him yesterday and he seemed around the 5. We never see/feel ribs when we pick him up and touch/play with him, so hopefully he's good health.

 

Thank you again <3

 

Happy to help. It may be nothing - Outdoor cats burn more calories than indoor cats, so he may just have a voracious appetite because he's the michael phelps of kitties and needs the extra fuel. But it's a good idea to get him vetted and get him some deworming if needed, especially if he hasn't been seen in a while.

 

I forgot to ask - Is Hopper neutered? Intact male cats tend to be more lean and muscular and have a higher metabolism, especially if they're on the prowl. IF he isn't neutered, do the world a favor and get him snipped ASAP.

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I have a question, well, 2.

 

Charlie the Beagle's eyes go red after he has run around / played with another dog - is this normal? he has plenty of water, and always drinks after a good run, but it freaks me out.

 

Charlie is fucking bat-shit crazy for garbage bins. Ive accepted this is part and parcel of being a Beagle, but short of putting the bin out of his reach, how the hell do I stop him from doing this?

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I have a question, well, 2.

 

Charlie the Beagle's eyes go red after he has run around / played with another dog - is this normal? he has plenty of water, and always drinks after a good run, but it freaks me out.

 

Charlie is fucking bat-shit crazy for garbage bins. Ive accepted this is part and parcel of being a Beagle, but short of putting the bin out of his reach, how the hell do I stop him from doing this?

 

 

The red-eyes thing could be a result of excessive play, but it also could be a result of maybe some allergies to something blooming outside. If he ever starts pawing at his face or his eyes look swollen, or if ever there's a white cloudy spot, get him to a vet. Otherwise, watch it. It may not be anything that needs to be addressed.

 

The garbage bin thing is a tough one. But I have the solution! Next time your dog gets into the trash, immediately reach for a rolled up newspaper, reinforced with duct tape is even better. Whack yourself on the head with it for leaving the trash available to the dog.

 

Seriously though. It can be stopped, but it takes time and dilligence. HIding the bin from him may ultimately be the only way to nip the problem in the bud, and the easiest way I've seen to do that is get a smaller bin that fits under the kitchen sink, and install a childproof lock on the cabinet. Trash bins that have locking lids obviously are a smart recommendation. But that's not curing the problem, it's just applying a band-aid. Ultimately, to STOP the problem, you have to condition him to not go near the bin at all. And to do that, you have to introduce something unfavorable to him when he goes to the bin, to teach him that going into the bin means something bad happens. A whipping or a scolding isn't going to do anything. I'm not sure what's available in Australia but a few items I've seen used successfully are:

 

SSSCat - A can of compressed air with a motion-sensing trigger. Hide it near the bin and it'll spray Charlie whenever he gets too close. Non-toxic, mostly just startles them. Eventually they'll learn to leave it.

 

The Scat Mat - A mat that can be laid out just about anywhere, and when it's stepped on it vibrates. Non-harmful, again just startles them. Not painful, but uncomfortable to stand on.

 

The Tattle Tale - Works like the Scat Mat, except it registers vibration on the surface of whatever it's put upon. IT emits a sharp noise that is startling to pets. This could be placed on the trash bin so that when it's moved, it goes off. I believe it has an on/off switch for when you need to move something or take the bag out or whatever, it won't keep going off.

 

Another option is to crate him when he's not able to be watched. Training in a crate isn't a difficult process. It shouldnt ever be used for punishment, only containment when you can't keep your eyes on him. Feed him in his crate for the first few days, to get him used to being in there. Then you can start leaving him in there for a few minutes at a time while you leave the room or run down the street or whatever. Eventually you can build up to him being in there for hours a time while you aren't home.

 

Finally, if you have the time, teach him that you've "Claimed" the room that contains the bin. When he gets ready to enter that room, stand directly in his way, point a finger at him, and make a sharp noise. "AH-AH!" or "BAH!" usually work well. EVERY time you see him getting ready to go into that room, get in his way and stand your ground. It's very important that you're consistant with this, and that every time, you're firm and commanding. Shoulders tight, eyes focused, voice sharp and stern. The word "NO" doesn't mean shite to a dog and he'll look right through you. But something he doesn't hear frequently, like "AH-AH!" or "BAH!" will catch his attention and you can position yourself to be the alpha.

 

Let me know if any of the above products interest you, and if you can't order them direct, I'll see if we can't work out getting it ordered and sending it to you.

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Happy to help. It may be nothing - Outdoor cats burn more calories than indoor cats, so he may just have a voracious appetite because he's the michael phelps of kitties and needs the extra fuel. But it's a good idea to get him vetted and get him some deworming if needed, especially if he hasn't been seen in a while.

 

I forgot to ask - Is Hopper neutered? Intact male cats tend to be more lean and muscular and have a higher metabolism, especially if they're on the prowl. IF he isn't neutered, do the world a favor and get him snipped ASAP.

 

 

He is neutered <3 We got that done as soon as we could.

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