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Tales Behind the Tails...


Jesi
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I noticed a lot of our members have pets or have had pets in the past, and after the heated conversation surrounding Greenies, I decided to create a thread where you can come to find out those questions that have been needling at the back of your head, but you haven't had the chance to ask. Any animal-related questions here are welcome, from general health to animal behavior, and all points in between. My job in the industry is to help folks understand what their veterinarian recommends. I will do everything in my power to answer your questions concisely and honestly to the best of my acquired knowledge, however I am not a veterinarian nor do I claim to be, and this thread should not be considered an alternative to consulting a licensed veterinarian.

 

*rubs hands together and puts on work scrubs* Bring on the questions!

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a lady who resepcts content placement...thnak ye

 

LL wants a ferret. i havent had on in years, but theyre awesome, i just cant commit to a pet while were living all transient rigth now.

ive been without a dog almost 10 years on my own now, and i just cant justify any dog worth a fuck without an actual yard for him. My brother's got this sharpei (lookit that head! he's a fucking manatee!) that i wanna steal from him so bad, but just cant bring myself to do it.

No middle to large sized dog shoudl be without a yard, right? I mean, you can walk him every day but it just aint right...what do you think?

 

Also, when i have a yard, i wants a malamute, as close to a wolf as possible. i had huskies growing up, and know theyre a bitch to train but i figure i can learn or take em somehwere, been readin up on it....but i do feel bad bout all that fur durin miami summers. thoughts?

 

ps this thread is an awesome idea.

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Agreed.

 

 

Cool... I agree, great thread idea... and the conversation wasn't heated at all, just a difference in opinion Ruby...

 

Great idea on this thread... So repeating the q's I had from the Greenie thread...

 

In addition to the Greenies, what products would you reccomend ? I'm seriously asking.

 

S&M NuTec and the Greenies only?

 

What should I definately STAY AWAY from?

 

Thanks. :)

Edited by MusicManiac
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Here's a question, and I've already asked the vet and he's no help. My dog is allergic to fleas. Itchy, dry, flaky skin. Poor thing. I've tried everything. I can't keep the fleas off of her. I've tried that too. Fleas baths for the dog and the cats. Powders for he carpets, the beds, the yard. She still get them. We've been feeding her special diet food for sensitive skin and it helps but is there anything you might recommend? Some kind of cream or spray to alleviate the symptoms? Something she won't find edible because she licks everything else off when I'm not watching her.

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Here's a question, and I've already asked the vet and he's no help. My dog is allergic to fleas. Itchy, dry, flaky skin. Poor thing. I've tried everything. I can't keep the fleas off of her. I've tried that too. Fleas baths for the dog and the cats. Powders for he carpets, the beds, the yard. She still get them. We've been feeding her special diet food for sensitive skin and it helps but is there anything you might recommend? Some kind of cream or spray to alleviate the symptoms? Something she won't find edible because she licks everything else off when I'm not watching her.

 

My family uses some sort of plug-in device (plug it into electrical sockets) that's supposed to drive fleas away. Seems to work, for the most part.

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a lady who resepcts content placement...thnak ye

 

LL wants a ferret. i havent had on in years, but theyre awesome, i just cant commit to a pet while were living all transient rigth now.

ive been without a dog almost 10 years on my own now, and i just cant justify any dog worth a fuck without an actual yard for him. My brother's got this sharpei (lookit that head! he's a fucking manatee!) that i wanna steal from him so bad, but just cant bring myself to do it.

No middle to large sized dog shoudl be without a yard, right? I mean, you can walk him every day but it just aint right...what do you think?

 

Also, when i have a yard, i wants a malamute, as close to a wolf as possible. i had huskies growing up, and know theyre a bitch to train but i figure i can learn or take em somehwere, been readin up on it....but i do feel bad bout all that fur durin miami summers. thoughts?

 

ps this thread is an awesome idea.

 

Holy CRAP :sarcasm: this thread went and took off without me! I've got some work to do already.

 

Ferrets and other small "pocket pets" are actually great pets to have if you're an owner on a budget and/or have limited time. THey don't require a ton of attention, don't have to come home to let them out to go potty on your lunch break, and generally adapt well to any surrounding. Dogs of any size should at least be given the chance to go for a run at the doggie park if a yard isn't an option, and regular trips out on the leash. If you can't commit yourself to a minimum of three leash walks a day (even just five minutes, nothing lengthy) you're not ready to have any sized dog. Just as well, if you can't commit yourself to the national average of 150 dollars a year for an annual checkup plus the cost of quality food and heartworm and flea prevention, you are not ready to have a dog. You don't have to put them on your car insurance or put them through college but having a dog is like having a child, in that they require a certain level of commitment both financially and in time spent, in order to have a happy, balanced, healthy companion. Wanting to steal your brother's dog because he has a face like a manatee sadly isn't reason enough to take on that kind of responsibility. When you ARE ready to adopt a dog, just keep a few things in mind:

 

1) Large breed dogs have a shorter life expectancy than a small-breed dog.

2) They often have a higher risk for heart disease and orthopaedic disorders.

3) Larger dog = Larger messes to clean up, larger quantity of food consumed, larger bedding, larger toys, larger vet bills, and LOTS more hair.

4) Most homeowner's insurance agencies will be reluctant to give you insurance on a house if you have certain breeds of dogs and I believe huskies and their relatives may fall under some of those guidelines. Also, most apartment complexes have weight limits and breed limits when accepting dogs.

5) Certain breeds of dogs, regardless of size, have a higher predisposition to certain diseases, deficiencies, and general health risks.

 

What this all adds up to is not a scare tactic, just a bit of advice and the hope that you do your homework before you're ready to adopt. As for dealing with hair in florida... well, most dogs can tolerate it in short bouts, i.e. going for a walk. If you don't want to deal with shedding, just clip it down in a standard lion cut. Your pooch will be much more comfy and you'll have less to have to clean up. Training... Well, training any dog can be as easy or as difficult as you yourself make it. You have to be dedicated and patient, use lots of positive reinforcement, and take baby steps toward the goal you're looking to achieve. When it comes time to train a puppy or dog, you let me know and I'll help you through it as best I can.

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Cool... I agree, great thread idea... and the conversation wasn't heated at all, just a difference in opinion Ruby...

 

Great idea on this thread... So repeating the q's I had from the Greenie thread...

 

In addition to the Greenies, what products would you reccomend ? I'm seriously asking.

 

S&M NuTec and the Greenies only?

 

What should I definately STAY AWAY from?

 

Thanks. :sarcasm:

 

For dental health, in addition to or as an alternative to Greenies, which are made by the S&M NuTec company, I like the Dental Rewards bones made by C.E.T., a subsidy of Virbac, which sells exclusively to veterinarians. Dental Rewards is like a greenie, but not as dense or hard. The primary makeup, like Greenies, is wheat gluten, alfalfa, chlorophyll, and parsley, however the Dental Rewards are also fortified with a coating of Chlorhexidine, which is consumable chemical that aids in breaking down plaque and tartar on your pet's teeth. It's like us using listerine before brushing, essentially. C.E.T. also makes HEXtra, a chew that resembles a rawhide, which comes in a variety of sizes for your pet, is highly palatable and again is coated with Chlorhexidine. EIther way, the chewing action abrades the surface of the teeth and the chlorhexidine solution helps to break down what's there and brush it away. Also, Hills Prescription Diet makes a line of food called T/D, which is meant as a diet but I recommend it as a treat. It's a large biscuit more than it's a kibble, a little smaller than a charcoal briquette, and the benefit to a larger bite is that your pet has to work to bite it in half. The tightly woven fiber of the kibble holds together so that your pet has to bite almost all the way through it before it will split, unlike most standard dry foods which shatter on penetration. This means that your pet's tooth gets a thorough scrubbing from all sides as it's enjoying a treat. I recommend it as atreat because the flavor coating on the food tends to be a little on the fattening side. It's available through your vet as long as they're not in the .0000001% of vets that DONT carry Hills.

 

As far as general treats go, I really don't have a huge preference. I'm forever true to Hill's Science Diet and Prescription Diet products, however I know they aren't always for everybody. Their Puppy, Adult, Light, and Senior treats are great as a general-purpose snack for your pooch. For dogs that have a sensitive stomach or protein-based allergies, Innovative Veterinary Diets (IVD) makes a line of treats called SelectCare, which are made solely from vegetable proteins and fibers. Again, very palatable and great for just about all pets. I really, really, really, really, really can't stress to you enough how much I detest any brand of pet food and treat you can buy at the supermarket. They're loaded with more fat and protein and sodium and carbs than even a young puppy or kitten needs for growth and sustainance and the manufacturers don't have a set protocol for producing their foods. Their ingredient list stays the same, but the quantity and quality of those ingredients will change from day to day based on whatever's cheapest. In the way of toys and chewies, try to stay away from cheap rawhide and pig ears/hooves, as generally those tend to be manufactured in foreign countries with processes that are generally less than safe. The natural hide is preserved in formaldeyde, bleached, and then coated with a flavor coating that's got enough sodium and flavorings to give an adult a heart attack. These products can become "gummy" when chewed and this thick, gooey wad of chewed up hide is not digestable if swallowed. On the opposite side of the danger spectrum, they are also very brittle when first unpackaged, and small pieces can be broken off by your dog and swallowed whole, the effect not unlike swallowing a sharp shard of plexiglas.

 

All told though, you want to only pick one or two treats that work for you and your pet - Treats should generally not make up more than 5-10 percent of your pet's diet and if they benefit your pet by being good for the teeth, that's excellent!

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Is there any way you can over spoil your pets?

 

 

There are a lot of ways you can over-spoil your pets.

 

Feeding ANYTHING that deviates from a regular diet, especially table scraps, or anything that entices or encourages your pet to become a beggar, and spending so much time with your animals that they freak out whenever you leave are two major examples. It's an incredibly delicate balance between treating your pet well and letting it walk all over you.

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Here's a question, and I've already asked the vet and he's no help. My dog is allergic to fleas. Itchy, dry, flaky skin. Poor thing. I've tried everything. I can't keep the fleas off of her. I've tried that too. Fleas baths for the dog and the cats. Powders for he carpets, the beds, the yard. She still get them. We've been feeding her special diet food for sensitive skin and it helps but is there anything you might recommend? Some kind of cream or spray to alleviate the symptoms? Something she won't find edible because she licks everything else off when I'm not watching her.

 

 

It sounds like you need to treat your environment more than you need to treat your dog. Fleas are a year round problem in the south and it seems like each year it only gets worse. My recommendation to you is to spend a little extra coin to get a professional pest control service to come in and spray specifically for fleas in your home and in your yard. The key to alleviating flea problems is to break the egg cycle and to do that you have to be dilligent and patient. Fleas are tricksy little bastards to combat because of their short life cycle. From womb to tomb is 3 weeks and in that three weeks they're busy little critters, laying eggs, getting their blood meal, and procreating. I don't know of a flea treatment that will take care of flea eggs so what I recommend to my clients is a three week cycle - spray the house and yard every three weeks until the fleas are gone. What you're doing is trying to kill the adult fleas before they have a chance to lay their eggs. With each treatment the number of adult fleas drops exponentially because there are less and less of them to lay eggs. Over the course of about 9 weeks you will have seen either a significant drop or the complete elimination of fleas in your home and yard. In between treatments, you can go through the house with a box of Boric Acid (hardware stores carry it). Sprinkle it on your carpets like a refresher powder, brush it in really good with a broom, and let it set for an hour. Then go and vacuum it up. Boric acid is like diamond dust to fleas. When you aggrevate it into the carpet and down to th epadding, it coats them and sticks to them. Then when you vaccum it up, it agitates the BA further and it pulverizes the fleas and potentially, flea eggs. My only recommendation if you do this is to do one room at a time in the house and keep the pets out of there until you've vacuumed. BA is not extremely harmful to pets but if enough of it is ingested, they can get an upset tummy.

 

Now. Along with treating your yard and home, treating the dog:

 

You've got to use a high-quality topical flea preventative - I HIGHLY HIGHLY HIGHLY recommend Advantage. It has a 3-5 minute kill time once it's reached its full protective potential, which means that once the product is evenly distributed across your pet's body, it takes 3-5 minutes to kill a flea that has ingested the product. The nice thing with Advantage is that your pet does not HAVE to be bitten for the flea to get the product in it. That's not to say that it won't, but the chances of your little one being bitten by fleas is decreased with the use of advantage because of its makeup. It's an oily substance and when a flea walks across it, the urge to clean itself is instant - the flea will start to groom itself and by doing so will ingest some of the product, and in an average of 5-10 minutes (but can take upward of an hour) the flea will die and fall off. Bathing your dog during the use of advantage is okay, but a few things to know before you fill up the tub:

 

Advantage uses the oil in your dog's skin as the transfer base to coat the entire body. IF you bathe frequently, you're going to wash the essential oil off the surface of the skin and by doing so, cut down the time frame for efficacy of the product. When you DO bathe your pet, be sure to use a gentle shampoo, labeled for use with flea prevention. Using a flea shampoo will kill the fleas on the dog, sure. But the chemicals in the shampoo will strip the oil from your dog's skin in a heartbeat, doing two things: Drying out the skin and causing the flea preventative to become ineffective. If your vet sells it, I recommend VETSolutions Aloe & Oatmeal shampoo. That, or DermalSoothe shampoo made by the Davis company. Both of those are highly effective for getting your pet clean and smelling sweet, they lather up well, and moisturize the skin without using harsh chemicals to strip the dirt off. If neither of those are available in your area, go to PetSupermarket/PetCo/PetSmart/etc. and look for a brand of shampoo called TropiClean. Again, safe for use with Advantage, Frontline, Revolution, whatever your fancy. If you want something soothing, get the one that's got tea tree oil. Always bathe in cool water - Warm water only agitates irritated skin.

 

If you want to try to help at home, you can introduce grape seed extract into your pet's diet. Grape Seed is an excellent antioxidant and will help her little body to cope with the onslaught of the flea bites. You can ask your vet for a dosing recommendation, and also inquire about a pet-specific manufacturer of GSE called Vetri-Science. They make a product called AntiOX that comes in various sizes and quantities. Also consider something for anti-anxiety - Half of the problem with dermatological issues is that dogs and cats alike get so revved up about being itchy that they work themselves into a quiet frenzy. And who can blame them? They're itchy! I like a product called RESCUE Remedy by Bach Flower Labs out of the UK. They make a cocktail of floral extracts that act as a calming agent against anxiety or fear, and it works great on animmals as an alternative to heavy sedatives. It takes the edge off without knocking your pet on it's tuchus. You cna get it at GNC and most holistic/organic food outlets. And lastly, try giving an Omega 3 Fatty Acid supplement. Flax is a good source, but fish oil is best. It works double to bring relief to itchy skin and also helps to supplement the joints.

 

I wish you luck in your endeavors, hun. Fleas are a pain in the ass to have to deal with and it only gets worse when your pet is suffering.

 

Oh, and PS - I can not STRESS this enough - Do NOT EVER USE FLEA PREVENTION PRODUCTS FROM THE GROCERY STORE! DO NOT EVER EVER EVER put that stuff on your animals. It's an archaic chemical that is ineffective, and can be VERY VERY HARMFUL IF NOT FATAL to cats! Hartz Mountain corporation has come under the gun for continuing to use pyrethrins in their flea prevention because cats have gone into neurological shutdown after having the product applied to them. It's NOT GOOD! Save yourself a couple grand in potential vet bills and just use the good stuff!

Edited by Rubys Angel
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I got this bulletin on myspace:

 

A woman at a Metropolis nightclub on Saturday night was taken by 5 men, who according to hospital and police reports, gang raped her before dumping her. Unable to remember the events of the evening, tests later confirmed the repeat rapes along with traces of Rohypnol in her blood, with Progesterex, which is essentially a small sterilisation pill.

 

The drug now being used by rapists at parties to rape AND sterilise their victims. Progesterex is available to vets to sterilise large animals. Rumour has it that Progesterex is being used together with Rohypnol, the date rape drug. As with Rohypnol, all they have to do is drop it into the girls drink. The girl can't remember a thing the next morning, of all that had taken place the night before. Progesterex, which dissolves in drinks just as

easily, is such that the victim doesn't conceive from the rape and the rapist needn't worry about having a paternity test identifying him months later.

 

The drugs effects ARE NOT TEMPORARY- They are PERMANENT!!! Progesterex was designed to sterilise horses. Any female who takes it WILL NEVER BE ABLE TO CONCEIVE. The bastards can get this drug from anyone who is in vet school or any university. It's that easy, and Progesterex is about to break out big every where. Believe it or not, there are even sites on the internet telling people how to use it.

 

Please COPY this to everyone you know, especially girls.

 

Be careful when you're out, and don't leave your drink unattended.

 

Please make the effort to pass this onto all you know...

 

Guys, please inform all your female friends and relatives. This has

now been reported to have been used on 360 women around London. Girls, keep your drinks safe at all times, and men, look after the girls you're with.

 

Please pass this on... Thank you

 

 

Are you familiar with Progesterex?? What is true/false about what was said in the bulletin?

Is it that easy to obtain, and are the effects of this drug really permanent?

 

 

Sorry I can't think of any smart questions to ask. Luckily no one is jumping at the chance to put date rape/sterilisation drugs in my drinks, but it's very scary all the same. I was curious to know your thoughts on the subject

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oh good! haha. It sounded farfetched, but the Blonde in me had to know. I wanted to ask before I googled it.

 

Even though DJ jumped in and ninja'ed my question thread, he's right - There is no such thing as a "sterilization drug" for horses - females stay intact all their life and males get castrated - and while one exists for dogs, it's not widely used because it's essentially an abortion drug for when a breeding bitch gets mismated. It's more harmful to abort a mismated pregnancy than to just a) let her come to term and deal with the puppies or b) spay the dog early in the pregnancy because in about 25% of dogs, a life-threatening uterine infection can occur, which will only mean having to spay the dog to save its life anyway, and the cost of the drug is substantially higher than to just suck it up and deal with unwanted puppies. It's not in pill form, either - it's an injectable solution, so it's not something that can be slipped silently into a drink. Make no mistake about it though, Rohypnol is a very VERY real drug, with very frightening effects by itself. It doubles as a sedative and memory blocker, and is very quick acting especially when mixed with alcohol. A dear friend of mine was attacked at a party after being drugged. Her symptoms are all textbook reactions to rohypnol but sadly she didn't go to the hospital within the recommended 48 hours to test for it, as well as other tests for rape, and so she has basically no grounds to press charges. So always watch your drink when you're with folks you don't know!

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What is the best and cheapest (im poor) dog shampoo I should use? Also is it bad just to use panteen and also is it bad to use conditioner?

 

 

"Best" and "Cheapest" sadly do not go hand in hand. Cheap shampoos (i.e. hartz, sargeant, etc.) are easy to come by but generally are loaded with dyes and chemicals that only serve to strip your pet's coat down and force the skin to produce more oil than is necessary, which only means they have to be bathed sooner than later. Which means you're going to use more shampoo, which means you'll have to buy more. If you're using a flea preventative, you're gonna wind up needing more of that sooner than you planned, too - Reputable flea products such as Advantage and Frontline stay on the surface of the skin or in the pores and wick out over time. The more you bathe your pet with a harsh soap, the faster the product gets used up. Cha ching!

 

On the flip side, if you spend a little extra coin on a good quality shampoo, you'll only use a little bit at a time, and it will clean the dirt and stink off your pet without drying the skin out. It's all relative, really.

 

As far as brand names go, here's what I like:

 

VetSolutions Aloe & Oatmeal - Only available through a veterinarian, this shampoo uses a very gentle, non-detergent cleanser to wash away dirt without stripping the natural oils of the skin. Smells real nice and leaves the coat soft and shiny without being greasy. This product does have a conditioner that you can buy separately but you really really really don't need it.

 

HydraPEARLS by EVSCO - A hypoallergenic moisturizing shampoo that utlizes "micropearls" to deliver a moisturizing agent to your pet's skin. I THINK this one is only available through a vet, but you might look in finer pet retailers (petCo, PetSmart, etc.) to see if they sell it.

 

TropiClean - A retail brand that has a whole range of different shampoos in it's line for all types of cleansing. I like the aloe/tea tree oil blend as it smells nice, and the tea tree is an essential oil that works with the aloe as it soothes itchy skin and actually acts as an anti-fungal/anti-bacterial agent.

 

The recommended retail on these products ranges - Here in Sarasota they go for about 10-13 dollars for a 20-ounce bottle. Before you balk, let me let you in on A COMMON MISCONCEPTION ABOUT PET SHAMPOO: You have to use a few handfulls of soap on your dog to get it lathered up and clean - WRONG! WRONG WRONG WRONG! More soap does not make the dog clean! If you want to get your pet clean, use a teaspoon of shampoo at the shoulders and rump and dilute it down with water to make it lather up and spread evenly! Also, if you want to make your shampoo stretch (or if you just want to make sure you don't use too much), mix it in a 1:4 ratio of soap:water in a separate container and drizzle on your pet and scrub until lathered up - Diluting it will not take down it's efficacy, and only serves to save you money and effort, because if you only use enough shampoo to get the dog clean, it makes them easier to rinse off, too!

 

I really don't recommend using human-grade shampoos on pets for a few reasons. Human and animal skin are totally different. We as humans are used to bathing/showering daily and so we use soaps and shampoos that strip the oil from our skin and leave behind chemically-engineered moisturizers in its stead. Our human-grade bath products are laden with fragrances and dyes and chemicals and a pH balance that we can tolerate but dogs generally do not. Dogs that have prolonged use of human-grade shampoo/soap tend to have dry, flaky skin and develop a dull coat.

 

With regard to conditioners: Most dogs don't need them. Some pet supply companies make a "conditioner" for pets only because we feel that if we as humans need it, so should the dog. Only in rare cases is it absolutely necessary to go behind and use a conditioning agent on a pet's coat, and usually that's with dogs with very long, fine hair, that get groomed constantly anyway (i.e. poodles, bichon frise, coton de tulear, maltese, etc.). On average you shouldn't be bathing your dog but once every few weeks unless they absolutely need it and if you're using a good quality pet shampoo, you won't feel the need to bathe your pet more than once every few weeks anyway.

 

Something I've found in my days in the field is that most products for animals are really geared toward the owner as a consumer. We live in a society where more often than not, our pets take on a human quality and become our "kids", and so we have a natural drive to provide the very best for them. By that nature, sales and marketing experts for the animal industry go by the thought process of "Whatever mom and dad get, so should the pet, right?" That's why we have pet food brands like Merrick that make "Granny's Pot Pie" canned dog food with chicken and potatoes and carrots - If it's appealing to the owner, that's what sells. To hell with what's actually good for the pet! So just be wary of what you're buying. If you can afford a few extra dollars to spend on a GOOD pet product, you're going to save yourself a few dollars in the long run.

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Even though DJ jumped in and ninja'ed my question thread, he's right - There is no such thing as a "sterilization drug" for horses - females stay intact all their life and males get castrated - and while one exists for dogs, it's not widely used because it's essentially an abortion drug for when a breeding bitch gets mismated. It's more harmful to abort a mismated pregnancy than to just a) let her come to term and deal with the puppies or b) spay the dog early in the pregnancy because in about 25% of dogs, a life-threatening uterine infection can occur, which will only mean having to spay the dog to save its life anyway, and the cost of the drug is substantially higher than to just suck it up and deal with unwanted puppies. It's not in pill form, either - it's an injectable solution, so it's not something that can be slipped silently into a drink. Make no mistake about it though, Rohypnol is a very VERY real drug, with very frightening effects by itself. It doubles as a sedative and memory blocker, and is very quick acting especially when mixed with alcohol. A dear friend of mine was attacked at a party after being drugged. Her symptoms are all textbook reactions to rohypnol but sadly she didn't go to the hospital within the recommended 48 hours to test for it, as well as other tests for rape, and so she has basically no grounds to press charges. So always watch your drink when you're with folks you don't know!

 

I hope you don't mind, but I used your answer in a response to a myspace bulletin concerning that story that's going around. If so, I very, very sorry. :pinch:

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haha, I read the title of the bulletin you posted on myspace Ly, andI thought "aaargh! I must post SB's and RA's response on to this right now before it gets too out of hand!". Then I saw that that was, in fact, what you did! haha.

awesome.

 

Yeah, I was the same way, that's why I made a bulletin post about it. Then I realized oh yeah, I should've asked first. But i didn't 'cause I'm an absentminded bastard. Hence the wanting to make sure I didn't step on any toes, and apologize if I had.

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Yeah, I was the same way, that's why I made a bulletin post about it. Then I realized oh yeah, I should've asked first. But i didn't 'cause I'm an absentminded bastard. Hence the wanting to make sure I didn't step on any toes, and apologize if I had.

 

 

Just give credit where credit's due, mate.

 

 

 

___________________________________

 

We interrupt this episode of Tales behind the Tails for a bit of Myspace Pimpage:

 

www.myspace.com/jwr

 

That's me, folks.

 

Add me if you want. I'm boring. But I have cute pictures!

 

We now return you to your regularly scheduled programming...

____________________________________

 

 

 

I just wish people would think before they act... i know i'm asking for the world here, but it's rumors like this that make me wonder how we managed to survive all these years, because the human race is a stupid group of people and we're as gullible as we are numerous.

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